You want to know as much as possible about the condition of the home you are buying.  One of the best ways to do that is to hire a professional home inspector.  The inspector’s job is to perform a comprehensive physical examination of property, including major systems and components.  The inspector then gives you an impartial opinion about the current condition of the property, as well as about potential safety concerns and any issues that might warrant further specialized inspection.  As you can see, a home inspection is a very important process.  You therefore want a well-qualified inspector to perform this examination.  How do you find a qualified professional home inspector?  And what factors do you look at when choosing one?  Consider the following tips:

Finding a Home Inspector

Referrals are an excellent source for finding a professional home inspector.  Ask relatives or friends who are homeowners what inspector they used when purchasing their home.  If you are working with a real estate agent, you will find that he/she usually has a list of qualified home inspectors in the area.  Other sources are your local Yellow Pages and directories on the web sites of professional organizations such as the American Society of Home Inspectors (www.ashi.org), National Association of Home Inspectors (www.nahi.org) or National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (www.nachi.org).  You can also perform an Internet search to find state associations and/or certifying bodies.

Choosing a Home Inspector

Once you have identified a list of candidates, what factors do you consider when making your choice?

       Professional qualifications and experience – You are looking for someone with relevant formal training as well as direct, practical experience and a proven track record in the home inspection business. Find out how many inspections they have performed and whether professional home inspection is their full-time occupation.

       References and reputation – Get the names and contact information for at least three previous customers.  Then call each one.  Ask how satisfied they were with the inspection and the inspection report.  Find out if any problems have surfaced with the property that were overlooked in the inspection.  Also consider checking with the Better Business Bureau to see if any complaints have been filed against the company that the inspector is affiliated with.

       Professional memberships and certifications – Is the inspector certified or a member of any professional associations?  If yes, determine if the organizations are reputable and recognized and find out what the requirements are for membership and certification.

       Insurance – Errors and omissions insurance provides protection for you if the inspector misses a problem that should have been detected during the inspection.  Insurance coverage is one indication that an inspector cares about protecting their customers and plans to be in business for the long haul with a solid reputation.

       Inspection report – Request a sample report so that you get a good idea of the scope of the inspection and the depth of information you will receive.  Inspection report formats vary from simple checklists to full narrative or anywhere in between.  You want to receive a comprehensive report, with annotated photos, that details findings.

What about price you ask?  Price is a factor for consideration, but don’t let it unduly influence your decision on which inspector to hire.  When it comes to something as important as your home inspection, you do not want to be a bargain shopper.  Saving a few dollars on an inspection is not worth the risk of overlooked problems that might cost you a lot more in repairs and stress later on.  Besides, you will typically find that home inspections by reputable, well-qualified professionals are in a similar price range.  You can expect to pay $200 to $500 for a professional home inspection depending on where you live and the size and features of the property to be inspected.

Sound like a lot of work?  It does take time to choose a home inspector.  But it is time well spent on the front end versus finding yourself the owner of a “money pit” after your deal is closed.

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Following is a brief outline of the detail that should be ( but usually is not) included in a good home inspection report:

                                               INSPECTION HIGHLIGHTS
          (This list is for a professional home inspector who I have not yet met)

1.GROUNDS & LANDSCAPE:The inspector will evaluate the general topography around the property with relationship to existing street grades and potential runoff from the street toward the building. Pavement and soil around exterior walls must be graded to divert water away from the home; this will help to reduce the possibility of water intrusion into the home. The sidewalk surface must be even and free from any trip hazard to prevent personal injury due to deferred maintenance or lifted tree roots. Similarly, the drive way should be sloped away from garage or have adequate drainage system.
Just so you'll know: Houses built in low spots develop all kinds of problems, including foundation cracks and rotten framing. They also are home to all kinds of water-loving fungi and molds that eat wood and make people sick. And if that's not bad enough, termites like nothing better than damp places near a lot of wood.
Remember:
Step 1: Use your eyes and common sense. Water runs downhill. If the lay of the land looks like it will shoot a bunch of water into your crawl space, it probably will. If there are deep washes through the lot, that's a clue that the lot takes on a bunch of water.
Step 2: Do a little measuring. All you need is a level and a ruler. By every building code I've ever read, the soil adjacent to the house has to drop at least 6 inches in the first 10 feet. If there is less than 10 feet of room between your house and the property line, the soil still has to drop 6 inches. Simply put, your house has to be at the top of a 6-inch-high hill.
Step 3: Make sure that the soil on the outside is at least 6 inches lower than the floor framing in the basement or crawl space.
Step 4: If the lot looks funny and doesn't measure up, have the courage to walk away. Somebody will build you a house that's not sitting in a swamp.

EXTERIOR:2. ROOF:Wear and tear on a roof may be apparent if the wear is very advanced but a roof that is starting to age is a subtler defect that the inspector can uncover. Resurfacing a roof costs thousands of dollars, and will cost much more if the existing roofing surface needs to be removed prior to re-roofing. If a roof will need to be resurfaced in the foreseeable future, this may be a negotiable item.
Roofing IssuesOf all the problems you can encounter around the house, roofing problems are by far the sneakiest. Leaks can develop unnoticed for years causing rot, mold, warping and other expensive damage.
Experts recommend that you go into your attic or crawlspace at least once a year after a rainstorm to check for leaks and water damage. Special attention should be paid to areas where you have flashing (the metal or plastic weather stripping that will be around chimneys, pipes, vents, roof planes and eves) because this is typically the most likely area to develop leaks. It is also recommended that you visit the surface of your roof yearly – during good weather – to look for any loose, missing, eroded, warped or otherwise damaged shingles and to check the overall condition of your roof.
You should also clean rain gutters and downspouts of leaves and other debris regularly, preferably in the fall once the trees are bare. While doing this, check for mineral deposits which could indicate the erosion of asphalt shingles.
Many people would prefer not to inspect their roofs themselves. Roofs can be pitched at very steep angles and pose quite a challenge to those leery of heights. Inspecting the roof from an attic or crawlspace full of spiders and other creepy inhabitants may not be too attractive either. Another issue is most people are unsure of what to look for. Leaks can be hard to track – water travels downward and the damage can be far from the actual leak. Because of this, hiring an expert to inspect the roof for you is something you should consider.

3. SIDING:The exterior siding of the house should be carefully inspected because residing a house can also cost thousand of dollars. Replacement of old defective windows can cost thousands of dollars, don’t overlook this obvious defect. Eliminating problems before they start is money saving.

4. BASEMENT:The most problematic defect you don’t want to find after you buy your property, it’s a basement that floods. The basement areas of the home should be thoroughly checked for signs of water intrusion, such as water stains, mildew, an odor of dampness, efflorescence on the walls and floors, and damaged and cupping floors. In addition, the inspector will look for water proofing systems, sump pumps, etc. in the basement; these systems can help to reduce the risk of water flooding in the basement but may not be able to eliminate water intrusion under all conditions. If a house needs waterproofing measures, the cost can run into thousands of dollars.

5. PAINT:The condition of the paint surface on homes constructed prior to 1978 may contain lead paint which can be a problem if there is wide spread deterioration of the paint surface; your home inspector may suggest an evaluation of the paint surface for lead content. Especially if children under the age of six years old will reside at the dwelling and if you are planning renovation of walls, etc. after you move in, lead paint is an issue to consider.

6. STRUCTURAL:Deflections of main wooden beams and cracks along exterior walls, and interior wall framing, or cracks in the foundation walls may indicate a serious structural problem . The result of poor design, structural alteration, water damage, or termite damage. Jacking up a house to replace damaged structural components, or underpinning a defective foundation wall is a major expense. The home inspector may not have the experience, education and expertise to evaluate structural problems; this is one of the reasons why retaining the services of a Licensed Professional Engineer (P.E.) to conduct your home inspection instead of a home inspector who is not licensed to practice engineering is advantageous (but expensive).

7. ELECTRICAL:The inspector will determine the size of the service AMPS, to etermine if it meets current standards. The inspector will remove the cover from the electric service panel should then check the electrical system. The inspector will check electrical outlets for proper wiring, open ground and wiring reversal conditions. The electrical outlets throughout the house must be three prong grounded outlets, any outlets within six feet of water source such as bathrooms, kitchen counters and laundry facilities must be Ground Fault Interrupter Circuits (GFIC), be aware of homes wired in the mid 60’s to mid 70’s may have aluminum wiring that could a potential fire safety hazard. If the home is very old extensive wiring replacement will be needed and that can be proof to be very costly.

8. PLUMBING:    The home inspector should determine the type of pipe that supplies water to the house from the municipal main in the street. Be wary of old lead and galvanized steel water supply pipes, replacement costs thousands of dollars. Be sure that your home inspector checks the piping distribution in the house for type of material and condition looking for deterioration, incompatible piping materials, and leaks. Your inspector should carry a moisture meter to evaluate any suspect plaster or wall board on the ceilings and walls caused by water leaks; replacing the piping network in the walls and ceilings is a major expense that can cost thousands of dollars.

9. HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEMS (HVAC):The inspector will begin by identifying your heating system weather it is oil, gas or electrical system. Homes with out separate hot water heaters can improve heating energy efficiency by installing separate hot water heaters. Typically 40 gallon is sufficient for one family and 75 gallon is adequate for two family homes. The hot water heaters usually last for ten years. Your inspector will be able to tell you how old is your hot water heater if there is one installed. Plan on replacing old heating units with a modern efficient heating system. Boilers that are starting to leak will also require replacement and a typical cost is three to five thousand dollars; your inspector should look for these major defects.The inspector should advise you to have underground oil storage tanks tested for integrity; a leaking underground oil storage tank can cause thousands of dollars of environmental damage. Another environmental concern is the existence of insulation that may contain asbestos and is especially hazardous if the material is friable. The inspector should advise you to have any suspect material laboratory tested.The home inspector should test the central air-conditioning system to be sure that it is cooling properly; replacement of an air-conditioning compressor can cost two to five thousand dollars .

10. SIGNS OF DEFERRED MAINTENANCE:Be aware of homes where deferred maintenance is clearly evident; if a home has been poorly maintained and there are obvious problems, proceed with extreme caution; this could be your worst nightmare.Be careful of homes where there is obvious plumbing and electrical work, as well as structural additions and renovations, that were not professionally installed and were most likely installed by DO IT YOURSELF homeowner; correcting these defects can cost thousands of dollars.

A Final Note:

Carbon Monoxide Detectors and Smoke Alarms save lives. We as building inspectors, contractors and consumers have known this for years. But we must remain diligent in or training and education efforts.

Most states have no licesning requirements for home
inspectors . The ones that do have requirements that range
from pretty -good to better-than-nothing. So what do you do? Research,research, research....

Don't be confused by home inspector "certifications" offered
by, or sold by trade societies or companies, or obtained via
home inspection home study courses, certifications are
available to anybody, a high school diploma is not a
requirement . You can go to your local bar and get a book of
matches with an ad " Become a Home Inspetor".
So why even bother to hire a home inspector?

Most experts recommend having a home inspected, new or
old. For new home, ask the builder to provide copies of any
 inspection reports on the property, architectural plans,
surveys and pertinent construction documents for your
inspector to review. Your inspector should either be a
professional home inspector, an engineer, an architect or
a contractor.
If you hire a professional inspector, look for one who belongs
to one of the home inspection trade organizations.

     The American Society of Home Inspectors
 (ASHI) www.ashi.org , National Association of Home
Inspectors (NAHI) www.nahi.org and National Association
 of Certified Home Inspectors (http://www.nachi.org/) have
 developed formal inspection guidelines and a professional
 code of ethics for thier members. Membership to ASHI,
NAHI and NACHI is not automatic; proven field experience
and technical knowledge about structures and their
various systems and appliances are a prerequisite.
Membership in a national organization is not a guarantee.,
 If the organization gets enough complaints they will remove
the inspector from thier ranks. This does not help the
consumer.

Section 4. "On the Side" 
                                   Beware of home inspectors who do the job
"on the side". Contractors who do home inspetions looking for
future work are also a strong caution.

  CAUTION :    The vast majority of home inspectors in
America today receive the bulk of their business from real
estate salespeople. Keeping these salespeople happy has
become the primary concern. Often times this is done at the
expense of an unsuspecting home
buyer with a soft inspection and/or
 report. So far, only Massachusetts
 has banned the practice of salespeople
 referring inspectors. If you live any
where else, it really is "buyer beware."

                                     Section 5. Questions

Questions that should be asked of a prospective
home inspector:

* What is the inspector's experience? How many years
 have they been in the business and how many inspections
do they do a year?
* Exclusively inspections? Beware of contractors who do house inspections "on the side"--they may be looking for work!
* What type of report? Will it be written or oral or both?
 Will the report contain suggestions for remedying
deficiencies?

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* How long will it take? A good house inspection should
take between 2 and 4 hours, depending on the size of the
house. A good rule of thumb is one hour per 1000 sq.ft.
* What will be included in the inspection?
* What is excluded??? This is the quetion Home Inspectors
 are usually very vauge on.
* What certifications / training do they have?

                                         INSURANCE:   
* Does the inspector have Errors and Omissions Insurance?
 General Liability? Ask for copies. This gives you some level
 of protection should there be an "error or omission" in the
 inspection--meaning the inspector missed something.
* Ask friends and neighbors about thier experience with
home inspectors.References are always good to have.  

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CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL REGULATORY AGENCY
FOR THE REQUIREMENTS FOR HOME INSPECTORS
IN YOUR AREA !!!