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Venting Your Home

                                           Why Ventilate?

             More than any other part of your house, the roof is subject to
extremely  high heat, both on and under the roof deck. In the summer,
on a clear  90°F day, the sun can heat the roof shingles to 170
°F.
Left unvented,  heat can build up to as high as 140°F inside the attic
,
temperatures  which can damage shingles
. Eventually this uncontrolled
hot air can  penetrate the home's living space, warming the area below
and causing  increased demands on air conditioners and increased
utility costs.  A properly ventilated attic enables this extreme heat to
escape outside.
        The result: Lower air conditioning costs in the Summer.

In the winter, moisture from the house condenses in the attic and settles
in the insulation. When wet, insulation loses its effectiveness (sometimes
dropping to as little as one-third its original R-value) and allows valuable
heat to escape through the attic. Even worse, soaked insulation can
 cultivate mold or mildew, as well as stain or crumble ceilings. A properly
ventilated attic provides an exhaust system, and moisture can escape.
The result: Better insulation performance and lower heating costs
in the Winter.


An additional danger during the winter months is the formation of ice
 dams. Properly vented roofs help prevent the formation of ice dams.
The result: Less damage to the interior of the house and longer
 lasting roofs.

Of all the reasons to ventilate an attic, however, the most important is to
preserve the structural integrity of the roof. At all times during the year,
heat and moisture accumulate in every attic, and when left uncontrolled,
excessive heat and moisture often result in significant damage to the
roof and structure—reducing their normal life expectancy. Proper
ventilation validates the shingle manufacturer's warranty, and protects
the roof and ceilings from both heat and moisture.
The result: Long life, beauty, and optimum performance from
roofing and housing structure. 



                                                                

                               FOUNDATION VENTS: 


       Excess moisture in crawlspaces promotes rot, mold, mildew, and
 invites termites to dine on the floor joists. Foundation vents are your
 homes first line of defense against excess moisture.

      In homes with crawl spaces and dirt floors, most moisture enters the
 home through the crawl space. Good crawlspace ventilation circulates
 fresh air through the crawlspace and exhausts musty, moist air.

      Check your foundation vents regularly to ensure they open and close
 properly.

                                                  What’s the Code Say?

  Crawl Space Vents:         The under-floor space between  the bottom of the floor joists
and the earth under any building
(except space occupied by a basement) shall have
ventilation
openings through foundation walls or exterior walls.

 The minimum net area of ventilation openings shall not be less than 1 square foot
 (0.0929 m
2) for each 150 square feet
(14 m2) of under-floor space area. One such ventilating
opening
shall be within 3 feet (914 mm) of each corner of the building.

  EXCEPTION # 2: The total area of ventilation openings may be reduced by 1/1500 of the
under-floor area where the ground surface
is covered  with an approved vapor retarder. 
  Raised floor construction results in an under-floor space, commonly
referred to as a crawl space. To control
condensation within crawl space areas
and thus
reduce the chance of dry rot, natural ventilation of such spaces by
 reasonably distributed openings through
foundation walls or exterior walls is required. Condensation is a function of the geographical location and the climatic conditions
and, thus, the dependence on
ventilating openings through the foundation wall or
exterior
wall may run counter to energy-conservation measures.

  The minimum net area of ventilation openings shall not be less than 1 square foot
 (0.0929m
2) for each 150 square feet (14m2) of
under-floor area. One ventilating opening
shall be within 3 feet
(914 mm) of each corner of the building. Ventilation openings shall be
covered for their height and width with any of the following
materials provided that the
least dimension of the covering
shall not exceed 1/4 inch (6.4 mm):

       The finished grade of under-floor surface may be located at the bottom of the footings;
however,
where there is evidence that the groundwater table can rise to within 6 inches
(152 mm) of the finished floor at the building
perimeter or where there is evidence that the
surface water does
not readily drain from the building site, the grade in the under-floor
space shall be as high as the outside finished grade,
unless an approved drainage system
is provided.

Installing a Ridge Vent.    

                   

                                           RIDGE VENTS:            Ridge vents are installed from end to end on the roof and have a low profile, making them less noticeable from the street. They are the most effective non-powered ventilators available,   providing uniformcooling along the entire roof deck. There are two types  of ridge vents: filter vent and shingle-over.

         The external wind baffle on the ridge vent causes wind to blow
over the vent, creating an area of negative air pressure. That draws
air up from  the attic,  effectively removing heat and  humidity. Look
for air vents  with filters that protect your roof against rain,  snow,
dust and insects.

                                                What’s the Code Say?

 

ROOF VENTILATION:

 Ventilation required. Enclosed attics and enclosed rafter spaces formed where ceilings
are applied directly to the
underside of roof rafters shall have cross ventilation for each

separate space by ventilating openings protected against the entrance of rain or snow.
Ventilating openings shall be provided
with corrosion-resistant wire mesh, with 1/8 inch
(3.2
mm) minimum to 1/4 inch (6 mm) maximum openings.

Minimum area. The total net free ventilating area shall not be less than 1/150 of the area
of the space ventilated
except that reduction of the total area to 1/300 is permitted, provided

that at least 50 percent and not more than 80 percent of the required ventilating area is
provided by ventilators located
in the upper portion of the space to be ventilated at least
3 feet
(914 mm) above the eave or cornice vents with the balance of the required ventilation
provided by eave or cornice vents. As
an alternative, the net free cross-ventilation area
may be
reduced to 1/300 when a vapor barrier having a transmission rate not exceeding
1 perm (5.7
_ 10-11 kg/s _ m2 _ Pa) is installed on the warm-in-winter side of the ceiling.

Vent and insulation clearance. Where eave or cornice vents are installed, insulation shall
not block the free flow of
air. A minimum of a 1-inch (25 mm) space shall be provided

between the insulation and the roof sheathing and at the location of the vent.

                                    POWER VENTS:

Power vents forcibly exhaust heat and humidity from the attic, even on days with no wind. The air enters through intake vents
  (typically located under the eaves) and is pulled through and exhausted
 from the attic with electric fans.

Power attic vents with two-speed controls
 are appropriate for areas with high temperature extremes. They come
 with an adjustable thermostat; low speed for energy efficiency
 ventilation, and high speed which kicks in when the temperature
 reaches the extreme.

If moisture is a problem in your attic, consider adding a ventilator with
  an automatic humidistat. These are available in both gable-mounted
  and  roof-mounted styles .

For safety, the motor should have an overload protection to shut the fan
  off if the motor overheats.

                                   WIND TURBINES:

        Wind turbines use the natural force of the wind to create air  flow and provide ventilation. The free spinning turbine is
self-lubricating,   drawing hot humid air from the attic.

Turbines come in two sizes: 12" and 14". The latter provides almost 30
  percent more air flow. Consequently you may need fewer 14" turbines to
  ventilate your attic.

 Installing Wind Turbines.

                                WHOLE-HOUSE FANS:

               Whole-house fans exchange air in your home much more rapidly than air conditioning units, providing a fast and efficient way to
 lower indoor temperatures. Through open windows, cooler outdoor air
 is drawn indoors, especially at night and early  morning hours. And
 even in the daytime, the air gently stirring throughout  your home makes
 higher temperatures feel cooler.

There are two basic whole-house fan designs: direct-drive and belt-drive.
 With either one, you can get a variety of speed controls, including single,
 triple and variable. Direct-drive fans are easier to install than belt-drive
 because they do not require attic floor joists to be cut. Belt-driven types
  may take a little more work to install, because you might have to cut a
 joist, but they offer increased circulation and quieter operation.

For small to medium-size houses, a direct-drive fan is the choice. The
 blades are mounted directly under the motor and attached to the motor
 shaft. Install a belt-drive fan in larger homes. A belt connects a pulley on
 the motor to a pulley on the fan blades. The result is a higher air flow and
 a quieter fan due to the steeply pitched slow-turning blades that are used..


     



 
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